The Nex Chapter

Nearly two years have past since I left Chennai.  In the interim we opened a new school and as life has been increasingly speeding by Devika and I still stayed in contact.  The plan was to always start an exchange between our respective schools, but the reality of that happening, although never in question, has seemed as real as someone in Washington calling me up to tell me I was going to go somewhere in the world as a State Dept Fellow.

After a year of talking, planning, and arranging our respective students and their families met last week via skype.  From our end it seemed like what was scary and unknown, immediately was replaced with warmth and excitement from both sides.   Never had the parents or students said explicitly that is was scary or unknown, but all they were going off was me asking them to host a vegetarian teenager from India, who may be a contender for nicest kid on the planet.

The technology issues with a group call across the planet were humorous and added texture to an already unique event.  In whatever path our students choose, I urge them to journal as they go.  They will learn so much through their new friends, and more about themselves and their homes then they could have possibly imagined.  If they write it down it will be their's for life, if they don't it will be a blur.  Our first meeting, albeit brief and continually interrupted by a bad connection, was a deep a touching exchange of humanity that I can only imagine inspired the same sentiment from everyone involved.  All that day the students that were involved, the teachers that dropped in, and anyone who talked with those involved came up to me and said, "wow, that was so cool ,"  "The energy was increadible"  "they are all so nice, we are so excited""I heard it was like the best thing ever".........

I just received the confirmations of their flights this weekend.  Now we will work on firming up the itinerary we have planned for the two weeks, and make sure that everyone is prepared as they are going to be for a life changing experience.

Jay Joy

Last night Devika was kind enough once again to show me around town.  We saw the anniversary play of another school that they have a connection to called Calibre, and then we had my final dinner in India. She introduced me to a new item that resembled a bigger and lighter sopapilla.  I was a big fan. Packing as much as we could in, we then went to a temple has been around for over 2000 thousand years.  It is amazing how active many of the temples are and how many people are cycling through or just sitting around enjoying the company of others.  Lastly, Devika wanted me to meet her mother so I could see the most traditional dress the 9-yard sari.

It is incredible to visit India, but I feel particularly lucky that I got to visit as a guest in real people's lives, as opposed to a tourist.  Building off of that, it is was wonderful to be welcomed and visit in someone's actual home.  The stay was short, but I got in a nice conversation with her nephew who apparently was excited to show me his traditional dress and his appreciation for his amazing home country and complex culture.  As they were saying bye they also said “Jay Joy.”  Devika's father came up with this because he thought there should be heartfelt meaning when you separate.  Jay Joy means "victory and joy."

I have already said my goodbyes at the school. I can say that although I can't wait to see Jan and Jane, I will miss these people and I am so glad that they are now a part of my life.  Devika took me back around to the classes I taught, and we took a few final ‘snaps’ (pictures) together.  I then had a final breakfast and discussion with heads of the school and the teachers.  We capped it off with a deep and productive conversation about the differences between our systems which was mainly anchored in the huge differences in the needs and learning styles of our students.  We had a very warm send off and they gave me as many textbooks as I could carry.

This is the letter that I provided to the school at the closure of our breakfast.  Valsa read it aloud, it was obviously received well. 

Dear:

Mrs. Dr. YG Parthasarathy- Dean and Director, PSBB Group of Schools

Mrs. Chandra Srinivasan-Advisor, PSBB KKnagar

Mrs. Indira Vaidyanathan- Principal ,PSBB KKnagar

I would like to extend my deepest appreciation to all at PSBB, and especially to Dr. Mrs. YG Parthasarathy for welcoming me and sharing her infinite wisdom.  I’d also like to personally thank the administration of PSBB KKnagar for being such gracious hosts; you all have provided me with the experience of a lifetime.  I have learned an immense amount from this exchange and I am hopeful that I was a benefit to PSBB.  At the very least you will always have an ambassador for PSBB, Chennai, and India.
  

I could write a book on all of the positive takeaways I have from this experience, so please recognize that this is a short and incomplete summation.  First off, I have been astounded by depth and quality of your school culture; this all starts with quality leadership.  It is obvious that your administration is very skilled at management, but I was most impressed that Dr. Mrs.YGP, Chandra, Indira, and Valsa are true academic leaders who continuously interact with and motivate your students.  I believe that the most important thing I witnessed at PSBB is that all of the administration and faculty is completely focused on providing young people the highest level of education possible.  This is not simply a statement on the wall, but rather something that can be witnessed in the seamless inculcation of values and multiple intelligences.

Your faculty has been very welcoming and I have been impressed by their skill and dedication.  I am honored to consider the teachers of PSBB my peers, and it is evident that they are enriching students’ lives every day.  I have had the pleasure to be a guest in numerous classes ranging from pre-KG to 11^th standard.  Every class was interactive and the approach of the teachers modeled the values of your school.  I applaud you all for your support of the teachers and your involvement in their professional development.  

All of the incredible work of the school really shines in your students.  I believe that all children are wonderful, but the students of PSBB are a particularly exceptional group.  Without question this is the warmest and most thoughtful assemblage of students I have ever encountered.  It was my pleasure to teach a few lessons and I can say with all sincerity that they are the most engaged and bright group of students that I have met.  Through my continued interaction with the students it is evident that they responded quite well to the methods I used, and it seemed to continue to ignite their interests.

Lastly, I want to let you all know what an incredible job Devika Raman has done to prepare for this visit and to make my stay memorable and productive.  She was very thorough and timely with her planning from the moment that I was selected as a guest fellow for PSBB.  During my stay she has successfully made every effort to provide the most insightful opportunities to learn about your school and have enriching professional discussions with your staff.  Not to mention she has diligently collaborated with the PSBB team to expose me to as many cultural sites and activities as possible.  I must also acknowledge the great hospitality and care of Mr. Rajagopal, he has been meticulous and prompt with the arraignments and was a wonderful travel companion.

I hope that this is not a farewell report but rather the beginning to an enriching relationship between PSBB and Nex+gen Academy.  We are trying to build our school on rich culture and I could not have visited a better place than PSBB to see what outstanding school culture looks like.  Once we begin classes in the fall you all should hopefully start to see the building of student relationships based on understanding, cooperation, and critical thinking about the amazing world that we live in. 

Again I would like to extend my congratulations to Dr. Mrs. YGP for receiving the Padmashree award.  She is an inspiration to all.

Thank you again for this wonderful opportunity.

Sincerely,

Jay English

Teacher Leader- IREX TEA Fellow

Nex+gen Academy

jay.english@nexgenacademy.com

Soon after this, the students that I had spent a significant amount of time with site seeing, gathered to bid me farewell and triple check that my contact information was accurate.

Upon getting to the hotel I finished packing, which was a challenge.  I brought a lot of gifts and would have left with a half empty bag, if I wouldn’t have received gifts or made any purchases.  I had to employ some tricky maneuvers to get my existing bag closed, along with the new bag I had to purchase to get everything back.  I then ventured out for the last time to get a card for Devika and Rajagopal.  Finding the simple things is really quite fun.  After a short time searching I found a unique little shop, whereupon I picked up cards for my friends, and also stumbled upon a classic that I had to buy.  This special card starts with “You’ve Broken My Heart….” Rants with such phrases as “I want my love returned,” …”Don’t you dare!”….and ends with “Damn it I love you!”.  Really this is an actual card? And a Hallmark card at that?   So I had to buy it, even though I was amidst a really huge day, I had to stop and let this little treasure in.

On my return from the shop I got Devika a nice bouquet of flowers from the stand that I waited at every morning to get picked up for school. Soon after that it seemed that Devika and Rajagopal were at my door.  This is where it was clear that it was over.  The non-stop intensity of the last 16 days was done.  I gave them their cards and accompanying gifts, and we proceeded to have a very nice last lunch at Saravan Bhavan.  Devika ordered the house down and I tried a whole table of new dishes.  We had all formed a bit of a bond by the end, so this felt like a little more than another hand eating extravaganza. I’m going to propose to Jan that we have hand eating Indian nights, I think Jane will dig it once she can make sense of it, and I’m now proudly a proficient hand eater.  I’m sure this will be a shock to Jan, since I’m the same guy that doesn’t like eating cereal in the same room with other people because the noise irritates me.

On the way to the airport I finally got clarification from Rajagopal on what one does when there is no sprayer next to the toilet and just a bucket.  I should have asked this earlier in case the avoidance strategy had failed me.  I meant to say “Jay Joy” at the end, but my plans slipped my memory.  None the less our parting had meaning, and I will be forever grateful  for having this experience.

Dear Sir Mr. Jay

This is my last entry, although chronologically it is recap of the 2^nd and 3^rd to last day, with a couple of other final thoughts.  After the first lessons that I taught, I had been told that I’d be teaching the follow up lessons the next day.  Then things changed because of the shift in my schedule and the students’ schedule.  This is reflective of a totally different approach to time and planning.  My whole trip was very well orchestrated, and not a second was lost.  The nature of the orchestration was very different than the American approach, I wasn’t clued into when those changes were going to happen until the moment of the change.  I came to learn that there is a plan, but things aren’t necessarily spelled out by the minute in writing, and when they are they are more of a target than a plan.  Once I started to get the flow I saw that this did provide flexibility and probably bypassed some unnecessary steps.  

One aspect that began to understand better was the very frequent impromptu requests to address large audiences.  It is not that I need to plan what I’m going to say , nor do I have any inhibition, but when the request was made there was something in my compartmentalized brain that said “keep it short, this wasn’t planned, so we need to keep it tight so we don’t derail the timing of the next activity.”  Towards the end I was told that I could have spoke longer, which now I realize.  I guess I was expecting someone to spell out, “that since you are the guest of honor we would like you to address the students however you wish for ~15 minutes.”  Not to say that I just said, “cool, peace, thanks, where is lunch?” But at the most I’d talk for 5 minutes.  I don’t know that I have anything profound than I didn’t get out, if anything I’m just intrigued by the way we approach things differently.

My last teaching sessions were really great and heartwarming.  If you show these kids interest and respect they flood you with the same in return. The follow up lessons were only taught to the boys, because the girls had all gone on a Youth Leadership trip.  Here in lies the monumental difference between our students, which I’ve noted before.  They are so innocent and lack any inhibitions. The teachers who spent time in the US wanted to talk about the reasons for this, which I think could be a book.  Before I even went back to the class these boys were hunting me down giving me personal cards and gifts showing their appreciation and gratitude for the lessons, the day before I’d got also received a couple cards from girls.  One boy made me one of those foldable notes where it gives you instructions on how to open it.  Inside it read “Dear Sir, Mr. Jay English.  You have opened our hearts and minds……We miss you already.” They would all eagerly stand by me anxiously smiling while I opened their kind notes and cards. Our kids lose this early, and it is unfortunate.  I think the self-consciousness that permeates our culture is likely inhibiting our potential. 

Needless to say that when I returned to the classes, the students were all pumped and ready to roll.  They were very prompt about getting into their groups and starting their value ranking activity. The level of their conversations in their groups was wonderful, and it appeared that all the students were participating.   After concluding the group portion I had the group liaison report their findings back to the class, whereupon I prompted them with more questions.  I had to switch my plan on the fly, since I only wanted one speaker at a time I realized that I was squashing their ability to participate and collaborate.  So we changed the protocol to when I asked a question, they had to first conference with their group for 20-30 seconds.  They did this with the intensity of game show contestants.  Every student wanting to speak is not a frequent occurrence in our classrooms.  We were able to come to a consensus on what the class viewed as their top three values (environmental health, knowledge, healthy community) and their bottom three (equity, adventure, material wealth).  I know this would be different than our students, and it is different from mine.  We had a really wonderful conversation on predicting American values, which seamlessly led to the more profound topic of, “why would we assess the respective community values that promote the ‘good life’ before addressing global issues?”  The light bulbs went off and they arrived at every right answer that I could have imagined and more.  They are all super excited about continuing this in some capacity, and eager to hear the perspective of American students. Before class was dismissed I gave them all American Flag stickers, which seemed to be a hit.  Nearly all the boys stuck around after class to talk about what they learned and to ask me some questions.  

On anything I talk about I wouldn’t consider myself a quotable authority, because this next topic hurts my brain so I’ll only touch on a small fragment.  From meeting with teachers that I know from other schools, I started to connect some dots.  Most of the kids at PSBB are under extreme pressure to get a 98% or above on their very tough board exams which consist of 5, 3 hour subject specific  tests.  If they don’t get that score they are shut out from the good schools, and programs that they desire.  This is due to a reservation system that sets different scoring guidelines for different castes.  Most of the kids at PSBB are Brahmans, which means they have to score higher than all students.  This doesn’t necessarily translate to economic standing, but it sounds like most students are upper middle class.  We have very complex social divisions in the US, but what India has created over a few thousand years is mind numbingly complicated. So what does mean besides what I’m sure by our standards are ridiculous amounts of pressure to perform on a test, that in parts of India has led to outbreaks of student suicide?  What I have gathered, among other factors, is that this reservation system, that does have good intentions and I’m sure some positive effects, is by default increasing their brain drain. A Brahman child who scores a 95% and gets denied access to programs in India is likely going to jump ship and do very well in an American university.  This can be at a great cost to the family, where they may sacrifice everything to get their child into our system.  There is a heavy propensity for students in undergrad programs to then do their post-grad work in US universities, but that is another issue.  Regardless of why some of these kids come, we would be lucky to have any of them in our university classes and in our communities.

On my last full day I was also the guest of honor at a cultural performance that included  all age ranges of students.  The first performance was by a group of mostly girls who did an array of traditional Indian songs.  They were all great, but the two girls that were featured were extremely talented.  This may have been one of the best vocal performances that I have ever heard.  All of the other performances were well done, and even at the lower levels there were kids that were very talented.  With the small kids there were plenty that did their role well, but they were more cute than anything.  It was a long show that had an intermission, whereupon they switched the student audience. This took awhile, and I was treated to a swarm of primary student performers (elementary).  Outside of coaching and being a summer recreation leaders as a teenager, this is the most exposure I’ve had to the smaller kids and it is really fun.  I don’t want to sound like Bill Cosby, but man they say and do the funniest things.

I have a ton more I could write about but I think I’m ready to shut it down.  A few people asked me “how did you have the time to write?” I didn’t, I basically sacrificed sleep to try and capture as much as I could.  During the day, I made cryptic notes or took pictures of things to remind me to reflect and write later. I’m glad I did because it would have been impossible to remember the last 18 days if I hadn’t.  It also helped me reflect on what I had just experienced, and focus moving forward.  All-in-all I feel like I may have captured half of what I wanted to, and I think there is still a huge amount of information that I have yet to fully process or understand.

Tough to Title

I knew that I’d be teaching today, but it seemed like the class and time were ever shifting, which was no problem for me.  After another stellar PSBB breakfast, Devika and Shonda took me for some impromptu visits to a government school and an orphanage.  For the first 5 days I thought everyone was talking about garment schools, I know textiles are big here but I was wrestling with the importance of the garment schools.  Anyway, the government school was not at all like PSBB, although my student interactions where quite pleasant.  I don’t have figures but it sounds like a majority of children in Chennai are in government schools similar to this.  Even if people are poor, they try to send their student to private school.  As I think I’ve discussed earlier there are levels of poverty here that wouldn’t allow for what I’m guessing is the small fee for some lower end private schools.  The most striking thing at the government school was the infrastructure.   There were no fans and the exposed metal roofs supposedly conduct heat.  I talked with one class and it was boiling hot, and to compound the problem the students don’t have access to drinking water.  Classes are large (40-60), and the rooms are small. The principal said that the lack of stability in students outside lives makes it difficult for them to concentrate on school, which sounds familiar but this obviously more severe.

When we got back I went into one class and began interacting with them.  Soon thereafter I was informed that this wasn’t the class I’d be teaching afterall, but I could still talk with them for a bit.  In the short time I had with them, they asked a ton of impressive questions which seems to be the norm.  I was then directed to another class, which was the one.  I have not taught a class in about 9 months, so I was banking on not having accumulated any rust since I have traveled half way around the world for this.

I can’t express how awesome teaching again felt.  It is a lot more than a job, to me it is equivalent to the feeling you get in sports when things are flowing.  The difference is when you score 30 points it feels great, but when you know a class worked it adds meaning to everything.   I taught just as I would teach back home and it worked well.  The whole experience was uplifting, I can tell that mountains could be moved if these kids were fully immersed in PBL.  They were ready to rock from the very beginning.  They listened carefully to instructions, and were very interactive.  Obviously what they are doing now is working given how well the students responded.  In all the years I’ve taught I’ve never had a class that performed so well right out the gates.

Without repeating the whole lesson, and purpose of the lesson I’ll give a short recap.  We are building out the context and framework to study the topic of globalization, by examining first what community values promote the “good life.”  Today we were able to establish a base understanding of the confluence topics through the” know and need-to-know” process.  Students volunteered what they knew about the project, which essentially was them conveying what they understood globalization to be (merging of economies, ideas…), and what societal components facilitate the good life (education, community health….).    Their responses were relatively advanced for being newly promoted 10^th graders, they demonstrated an impressive level of global awareness.  The need-to-knows were equally as impressive some of the responses included:

                We need to know about:

Ourselves first, before we look outward.

            Change, and how to account for that change.

            Other cultures and systems of government.

            The role of peace organizations (NGO’s, UN, WTO..)

The defense programs of other countries.

            Other countries markets.

This is just a sample of the impressive list they generated.   I had to cut this part of the lesson short in order to get end at a constructive point.  After this I moved them to the value ranking activity, but I first assigned group roles, and gave clear instructions on how to communicate with me and their classmates before beginning the group process. When they were released they began the group activity with vigor, although they were soon cut short by the time constraint.  As homework they will contemplate the activity, and hopefully start to look at the website.  At the conclusion of the activity tomorrow my hope is that they will publish their results using the online tool I provided so that we can compare their results with the American students.
 

The second class I taught was so on fire, that all that I need to say is that if I could teach these kids with the  freedom to work in my style it would be a tempting offer.  It was obvious that they responded really well to my teaching by their eagerness to talk about heady topics after class.  I’m now expecting a flurry of Facebook requests from all the students.  They are all so strong, eager, and polite that I’m sure they could make anyone feel like a world champion teacher.

Speaking of kids who don’t, or didn’t, have their basic needs met, we visited two orphanages today.  I didn’t know what to expect, but I was pleasantly surprised.  The first place was near the school and seemed to only have older girls.  I met a few of the girls and they were obviously doing quite well with their studies.  I believe 25 girls live there in total, and they are supported through the donations that are given at the Sai Baba temple in the front.  When the girls grow up and finish college the orphanage even finds a way to support the wedding expenses .  I guess I expected a solemn place were souls are crushed, and physical needs are maintained.  This place exuded love, and these kids where much better off than staying with families who didn’t want them or couldn’t take care of them.

I actually went to the aforementioned orphanage before teaching the second class.  After teaching the second class we got the okay to visit Udavum Karangal.  From what Devika had indicated this was going to be a bigger deal, but neither of us knew what to expect.  The man who started this organization Vidyaakar, is being compared to Mother Teresa.  I carry equal parts of hope and suspicion when I hear about organizations helping the needy.  I don’t know if it is warranted, but I’m always checking to see if there is an ulterior motive.  From the moment we walked in I could tell this place was something really special.  It was taking the most painful and tragic human conditions and offering unconditional love in a way that is so profound that it made me drop my suspicions without even thinking about it.  I can’t give the exhaustive list of people they help, but to give an idea it is an orphanage, a place to take care of abandoned and/or abused people with mental and/or physical handicaps, and a new home for abused women including victims of dowry burnings.  We were lucky enough to meet Vidyaakar who was unassuming and genuinely warm.  One of the social workers took us around, they never asked us for money but they are obviously doing a great job of promoting their good work to get funding.  I was impressed that it seemed so transparent and that you could so freely see what they had going on.

We first started off by visiting the orphans.  The stories of how these kids got there made my throat drop into my stomach.  The first room had mostly little girls maybe they were 3 or 4.  They were very happy to see me and Devika.  Two of the girls just clung to me and one grabbed my hand and continued to hold it the whole time that I was in there.  We then went over to see the babies, and this was tough.  Given that I’m finishing writing this a couple days after the fact, I think Jan picked up that I would been willing to expand the family if I could have.  One little guy who was maybe two came up to me and lifted his arms up, I asked if I could pick him up and Vidyaakar said sure.  For about five minutes I held this little guy and he took off my sunglasses and took them on and off his head in every possible way.  There was one girl in there who had some major disabilities and we were informed that she was a not-so-rare case of a disabled baby being born and abandoned at the hospital.  We then visited the other side of the campus that had different facilities for the disabled.  Many of the residents happily greeted us as we kept on our way.  One of the tougher areas was seeing the children and some adults that were severely disabled, disfigured, and couldn’t move under their own will.  We saw the Physio-therapist working with some individuals and evidence that these kids, who will forever be locked in one position and likely in pain, were frequently getting loving words and touch from the people in the wards.  Many of the residents help take care of the other residents.  For example some of the mentally retarded patients may not be able to ever be self reliant, but with supervision they can do a great job of providing loving attention to other patients.

This wasn’t a sad place in that it was clear that they were doing an amazing job of helping anyone that they could.  Of course I left with heavy heart even though I knew that even the children were being provided a relatively good life.  Devika is going to set up some intensive community service with Udavum Karangal which we both agree is a great idea.  It will give her students a great experience, and it may get that much more attention on an organization that is being incredibly well run from all angles. 

Wedding Crasher

An abundance of good quality coffee at the resort created a reliable start to the day and a sense of comfort to proceed with site seeing. Rajagopal and I checked out a variety of sites in Cochin, Kerala including a couple palaces and the harbor. Before leaving we were suddenly in a huge rush to find banana chips for him to take back as gifts. I’m not sure what he was looking for but there seemed to a great availability of what appeared to be banana chips in every shop we went into. We shuffled from place to place, and he repeated numerous times “Quality is very important, very important.” This became a quotable phrase throughout the trip. We reached our bus with no time to spare, banana chips in hand, and we were off. Or at least we thought we were, this was the same bus that delayed us four hours on our voyage to Kerala. Before we left town the bus broke down, and we soon found ourselves outside amidst conversations on the intricacies of buses and service contracts. One friendly guy went off on how much he likes the Volvo buses, whereupon he gave me all the details on the engine. Another guy listened with a smile and a T-shirt that read “Baseball All-Star” with the image of quarterback taking the hike. The other men calmly and closely surrounded the wrenches.

We got going, and the Easter traffic leaving Kerala provided the scariest bus experience of my life. On a two lane highway the bus would pass blindly many times sharing the road with multiple oncoming vehicles. Within a hour we saw the remnants of where it appeared a vehicle had run down a pedestrian, and soon after that we just missed a head on conclusion between a dump truck and a bus. What remained made the rest of the 12 hour journey a tad stressful. Right before getting to our destination, Rajagopal informed me that my morning plans had changed. We rolled in at 7am and the plan was to be picked up late morning to go to the school. He said you’ll be at your hotel by 7:30, be ready to be picked up by 7:50 for a wedding. “Who is picking me up?” “The driver.”

These kind of surprises are welcomed, and I was curious to see a wedding. My cell phone was dead, and I wasn’t sure how I’d navigate my way back from the wedding. I was confident that it was all worked out. Luckily I wasn’t going alone, Devika and a student arrived at the hotel at 8:15, and off to the wedding we went. From the very entrance it was obvious that this was an impressive and welcoming occasion. There was ceremonial music playing, and everyone seemed to be scattered about joyously conversing. Before even entering the hall I was welcomed with open arms by family members, and it was so inspiring to meet people that were so willing and eager to share such an important occasion with a stranger. The bride and groom were under a beautiful gold structure adorned with flowers. Surrounding them was a variety of relatives, friends, and family members. One of the bride’s uncles grabbed me and started introducing me to the people around him. He then insisted that I sit in the front row in the first seat. After a short stay in top spot, we kept moving and chatting. The ceremony was going on the whole time, but people are free to partake how they wish. The lack of rigidity in the religious practices here is really, really cool. Oh I forgot to mention that before we went up to the hall they fed us a great breakfast. No matter where you are you will be fed.

Devika explained much of what was happening and we compared notes and thoughts on marriage. Both Devika and her administration have gone out of their way to give me the most rich and fulfilling India experience possible. It is evident that there has been hard work put into this whole experience, and at the least they’ll have in return is an ambassador for PSBB, Chennai, and India back in Albuquerque. After the wedding commenced we went back to the school. After the bus trip I wasn’t fresh, but the day was too exciting to care. On the way to checkout a presentation by 1st graders in the primary block, Devika saw me eying the boys playing cricket. This led to me taking about a 5 minute turn as a batter, quite fun. I can see why people dig this game, I think it is similar to baseball but faster. We then made our way over to watch more adorable and sharp little kids show their stuff.

I’m moving through this recap fast, because I’m wanting to get this blog and the previous 3 up. After seeing the little guys, I was a special guest for a Model UN summit put on especially for me. Again, these kids are high flyers. Their performances and arguments closely mirrored what we see in Santa Fe for the NM Model UN. This being a reflection of just one school is outstanding, and the fact that they did such and exhaustive run through as basically a practice session makes me again realize that we need to step it up. I talked with a 10th grader before hand and I questioned her on the importance put on Model UN and other programs of the like. She said it was quite important, and prestigious. Here again is where I think they have their priorities right. Model UN is an example of an activity that makes better citizens and will give some serious chops in their professional life. I’m shutting this one down short so I can review the lesson I’m going to co-teach tomorrow.

Oil Man

Sleeping on an ever-so-slightly rocking house boat, on a pitch black silent lake that opens to the Arabian Sea is recharging to say the least. I worried about being the dinner for the swarm of mosquitoes that had consumed the boat after dark, but luckily there wasn’t a bug to be found in my room. When I woke up this morning I opened my window on to the still lake, lined with palms trees and touched by floating plants. After gazing long enough to see a couple of the fishermen passing by peacefully as they stood in their canoes, I decided to partake in some yoga. This was nice, it was the image I always tried to get in my head during yoga when all of the tasks of the day would usually crowd it out. Right as I finished I got a nice text from Jan, which led me to believe that she had gotten her flowers. Although it was the morning of April 3rd for me, she was likely just getting off work on the 2nd.

I joined Rajagopal for another perfect meal on the deck, and we took a couple of pictures before we finally made our way back to dock. Our driver picked us up, and as always it didn’t seem like we knew where we were going. Although I don’t know what was being said, I was tipped off by the asking for directions every three minutes, sometimes for hours. This is not a criticism, the roads are not marked, they are confusing, and people point or nudge in opposite directions frequently. On our journey to the bird sanctuary, we made a couple of unforgettable stops. One for coffee, in a little road side shop that reminded me of rural Guatemala. They serve hot bevies in small glasses here, which takes a special holding technique to avoid getting burned. The shop owner was eager to show me the bulk items that he had for sale, which ranged from cashews in the shell to raw seeds used to make soap and dye. The guys next door had an open metal working shop. I was watching and they seemed open to me wandering over, so I did. They were doing some serious work, with the simplest of tools. What is nice besides the fact that impromptu tours are totally welcomed, is that they not only are they ok with pictures, most people seem to get excited. Across the street about 10 guys had a small lumber operation going, they were moving logs through a couple of classic but very functional wet saws. I’m hoping these pictures are cool, because it was great seeing these guys get down to business (and they were pumped about the pictures).

As we continued on our way to the bird sanctuary, I heard some fireworks and songs which made me quick draw my two cameras. Rajagopal ordered the driver to stop, and when we got out there was a small festival going on at the temple. The people were very welcoming and the kids were ecstatic about my presence. The one little girl, who was 3 or 4, kept rotating from person to person just to keep an eye on me. I’m convinced that this one of the cutest kids I’ve ever seen. A few children and a few adults made their way over to welcome me and ask me a few questions. Rajagopal took the opportunity to say a prayer and get his Bindi. This is cool, wherever you are at you can stop to pray, give your fellow citizens a shout out, and be on your way. It really does justice to the ‘pray and believe it your way’ that everybody keeps suggesting. Kerala is quite the center of religions for every temple there is a brightly painted church and often a mosque. So after some turns, and turn arounds and a stop to “you need to take urine?” we reached the bird sanctuary.
I’ve been inquiring more about what Is being said but I am still confused. For example when we went into the bird sanctuary, there seemed to be numerous debates going on just to get in, I’m not sure if Rajagopal is heckling for a couple rupee discount every time or if everything just has a few more steps. Maybe the language just functions differently. Rajagopal and I started our trek into the sanctuary. It was a really picturesque walk under the forest canopy, but I was wondering where the birds were. After about a mile and a half we got to a tower. When we climbed up where we could see above the canopy and it was like being thrown into the Lion King, minus the lions. There were thousands of beautiful birds flying around and perched on every tree. Supercool.

After going on another journey we got to a super-super nice resort. Rajagopal prides himself on being a good host , and most of all a good commerce man. Story goes that when there was word of me coming he took the helm on arranging the trip we are currently on. The school is comprised of kids of well-to-do parents, one of which owns a travel company. A call was made and now I am in completely decked out room with a window overlooking a flower covered canal, all of this is at nominal price. After we got here we “took a lunch.” Eating is big deal, and Rajagopal wants to make sure I’m taken care of. Even if I start to order, he’ll interject that I “want dosa.” Then he tells them that I am special, as is he, “He [I] got off the plane, had dosa at the best restaurant in Chennai ‘Saravan Bhavan’, my student owns, and he had dosa with hand.” If they try to suggest that they don’t have a dosa then it is on. We had a nice meal next to the lake with a man serving us what seemed like every spoonful, but no dosa.

I then got in another half hour workout, followed by about 45 minutes of swimming with Germans in an incredible pool that butted up to the lake as well . Then it was off to the Aruyvedic spa for my three hour treatment. I’ve had my fair share of massages, including one by a French-Canadian named Bam-Bam in Turks and Cacaos, and another in Panachel, Guatemala by an English guy who was good but favored the credit card swipe. This was a whole new level. This was the first one where they outfitted or de-outfitted me for the treatments, which included something akin to a small cheese cloth and some dental floss. I first was sat on a stool, while I had warm oil that smelled of spices rubbed in my hair and then on my shoulders. My massage, as with all the treatments included more oil than all of the treatments I’ve had in my life combined. The table funnels the oil into containers. After the massage my entire body was pounded with a wadded up all ball wrapped in cheese cloth that was repeatedly dipped in very, very hot oil. After this I had something put over my eyes, and a clay pot was suspended over my head. The pot was carefully aligned so a string from the bottom that fell on my forehead. For the next hour hot oil was dripped on my forehead. Even after a long scrubfest in the shower I am still coated with oil.

At dinner I overheard Rajagopal telling another waiter that I like dosa, and then the same story to one of the desk clerks. I’m glad he likes that I like dosa. I may not have a ton of Indian food immediately when I return, but I’m sure I could eat a dosa nearly every day.

Romance with Rajagopal

Today is April 2^nd, which I consider the most cherished day of the year.  I’ve just finished a long bus ride that was supposed to be from 6:45 to 7 and has turned into a few hour wait in the street and thereafter 15 hours of traveling.  Despite the numerous complaints I squashed in my head, I now am looking out from our boathouse at the perfectly serene backwaters of Kerela.  This place is romantic, it bears no contrived romantic destination features, and it calmly lets the body fall into a semi-sleep that is bombarded with beautiful thoughts.  All I have to do is relax on the deck, and eat when our cook signals that our meals are ready.  I couldn’t be in a more perfect place for this particular day, but although Rajagopal is very caring and accommodating he is not  who I’d prefer to be here with.

I ‘m doubtful that I’ve expressed my continued affinity for April 2^nd recently, so no better time than the present.  Today is Jan and I’s going out anniversary, which most people likely don’t have, but we do because we fell in love as kids.  I really cherish this day because it is not a day we picked, or anyone else established, it is a day the fatefully gave our lives a whole new depth of meaning and changed the trajectory thereafter. Right before Jane was born I was investigating String Theory, and I started to ponder if time is real as we see it which led me to wonder if I’ve known Jane and Jan all along.  Never mind that point, it will turn into a writing attempt that I’m not confident my brain can handle.  But the fact that I was completely taken by Jan when I first saw her in 2^nd grade, and purposely didn’t approach her until I knew I was ready, at the ripe age of 17, makes me whimsically think that what we have is bigger than the poster I gave her that said, “will you go to prom with me Jane (e crossed out).”  Anyways, I miss Jan and Jane too.  Jane is starting to crawl veraciously, and she looks older on Skype.  This part of the trip is no bueno, but I know that this experience is better for the three of us. I think that we should reclaim April 2^nd, as our falling in love anniversary- because “going out" is a gross understatement.

The romance with Rajagopal went on, we had great conversations on the deck, enjoyed a walk at sunset, and shared a couple of elegant meals.  He is cool, and knows how to work the system.  He’ll routinely do a short wave or gesture, which I’ve learned means “stay there foreigner”, and he’ll head off to negotiate without my face in the mix (which will double the price).  Sometimes he leaves and brings me back a surprise, like a Fanta or cookies……R-O-M-A-N-T-I-C.  I always say no, and he says “take, take” whereupon I take it. After spending numerous nights with him, which is now turning into days I think I’m picking up his angle, ‘whatever you choose, do it for the right reasons; and whatever you do , carry out your actions with full commitment and high quality’…...”That is very important.”  Last night he had the star- student, Vishruth, meet me at my room, because he was running over an hour late.  I had a quick dining experience with Vishruth where he perfectly articulated what he saw as the issue with the high pressure board exam system in India (kids are taught to the test, do well, and forget everything- sounds familiar to AP). One example is that Rajagopal had his students take seventeen 3-hour practice exams before the boards….wow!

Jumping around a bit, but back to how our Kerala tip started after my dinner with Vishruth.  Rajagopal and I hurried up the road with the greatest sense of urgency, and were dropped by Vishruth’s driver at an random spot in the road to catch the bus.  We waited for the bus for about 3 hours, it had gotten stuck in traffic.  This was much more about the journey than about the destination.  This spot in the road was as good as gets for civilization watching.
  

I had made the conclusion that the sidewalk with a mass of people laying across it indicated that this was where they were going to reside for the night.  However, I hadn’t committed it to reality.  When the family next to us started to put up their mosquito net, Rajagopal pointed out the obvious by affirming that was their home for the night.  This road is bright and loud beyond most Burquenos (people from Albuquerque)  comprehension.  Rajagopal’s comments made me think deeper about that being their life.  It looked as if there were four in the family- an elderly appearing couple , a young mother, and a small boy in school clothes that was about 4.  They looked happy, or at least the boy looked like his emotional needs were being taken care of (not that I know much).  The adults were attentively paying attention to the boy, while preparing the sleeping arrangements.  I’m not sure what to think or feel, and this is the same at home.  It used to crush me, just as seeing the freshly caught fishes lips being cut off and then its body split open today.  I think I’m done with fish now, I’ve been a quasi-veg for awhile, or a pescatarian.  Seeing that fish dismembered for a forgettable meal might have sealed the deal for me.  As far as the family goes or anyone else in need, I want to strive for answers that make society grasp the responsibility for acknowledging the least among us by teaching them to fish, rather than giving the fish for the day.  How that happens, I’m not sure either but maybe continually questioning it will somehow help someone come up with the answers I don’t have.  In the mean time that family is getting by, and there is nothing I can do.  The problem isn’t something the money in my pocket can address, nor do I have magic answers.  If they were in the same condition in a rural area I’d think they’d be good to go.  Having to take the brunt of all the pollution and dangers in a city is different.  Rural people migrating to urban centers is a problem throughout the developing world, and is going to be intensified with global climate change.

Rajagopal regularly shares his little life secrets and finishes with “That is very important, ha, ha, ha.” Without the slightest bit of mockery, I enjoy his profound statements.  For instance, he instructed me how to take a bath.  I don’t think this was a subtle suggestion to bath better in lieu of using so much Gold Bond.  By the way Rajagopal seems to be a business wiz, he is the commerce dept head, which is tempting me to figure out how to get a cheap gold bond-esque product into this area, and other tropical environments.  It is a real lifesaver.  Anyways with full animation he showed me that you take the small bucket and just drip small amounts of water on your head.  Cold water of course, he is anti- hot water, a/c, or household appliances.  When the water drips down your body, it will remove the heat away.  Then after a few pails you can start the bath, by dumping full pails.  I’m on course to try this, it sounds like a great idea.  He makes an extremely valid point that the 20r bus with a/c as opposed to the 5r bus is now a luxury, but will soon be a necessity.  We have so many necessities in American life, that we end up working to support our recently created necessities, not to mention polluting at an incredibly high level.  Our answer is always an environmentally smart product, as opposed to no product at all.

The school I’m at has no a/c and it is over a 100 degrees with full humidity.  It is hot, but you adjust.  We could work more on our three R’s (reduce, reuse, recycle) and strive for the fourth, refuse.  I guess if there is one thing that I’m taking away from all of my travels is to be as worldly as possible so you don’t unknowingly contribute to other’s problems, but take care of your own community's problems first.  There are a multitude of reasons for the later statement: Your community is the one you know and the one you’ll be able to have the most impact in, your own community has plenty of problems which may or perhaps already are spilling into other communities, and community self-empowerment is the only sustainable answer.  Gift bearing missionary work can be unintentionally dehumanizing and ineffective.  There are many exceptions, but too often communities become reliant on governments organizations and NGO’s. I’m all over the place on this entry, but so goes my day.